Buttermilk Pancakes

It's easy to make the ultimate pancake

Summary

Contents

• Why make pancakes from scratch?
• The Basic Recipe - Making the Batter
• Cooking the pancakes
• Eating the pancakes!
• Making them fun: adding stuff
• Going for perfection
• Cookware
• When disaster strikes
• Closing

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Link
Jenson, Scott. Buttermilk Pancakes:It's easy to make the ultimate pancake [Internet]. Version 76. Knol. 2011 Dec 3. Available from: http://knol.google.com/k/scott-jenson/buttermilk-pancakes/IMd1ml4q/vzc3bg.
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Why make pancakes from scratch?

The classic American pancake has many variations, but the buttermilk pancake is its highest form. Properly made, it is extra light, almost nothing in your mouth. Its flavor is complex, revealing a depth beyond just the syrup poured over the top. It is also, unfortunately, one of the rarest finds in American kitchens. Most pancakes are either microwaved (shudder) or made from a mix, which is too bad, as they are so easy to make. Once you've had them like this, there is no going back...
I am not a professional chef. I have, however, made thousands of pancakes. I'm always learning new tips and tricks, so this is a never-ending quest. 

The Basic Recipe - Making the Batter

Buttermilk is, of course, the magic ingredient. It adds not only flavor, but also acid, which reacts strongly to the baking soda. This is one of the key reasons for the lightness of the pancake. Just buy one quart every few weeks and keep it on hand. It isn't expensive and it keeps well.
You won't need anything fancy for equipment, just a typical set of measuring spoons and cups. A whisk is nice, as it makes mixing easier, but a big spoon will work. You'll also need two separate bowls, one for mixing the dry ingredients and one for the wet.
The Wets 1.5 cups (350ml) buttermilk
1 egg
3 Tablespoons (50g) melted butter - use microwave
2 Teaspoons (10ml) vanilla (add 1 more for kids!)
The Drys 1 cup (165g) white flour (bread flour best, not sifted)
3 Tbsp (40g) sugar
1/2 tsp (3g) baking soda (make sure it's not 3 years old... ;-)
1/2 tsp (2g) baking powder
1/2 tsp (4g) salt
Put the wet and dry ingredients into separate bowls. Whisk each one lightly. Add roughly half of the dry mix into the wet and whisk smooth, not too long. Add the remainder of the dry mix and barely whisk together. Make sure all of the flour is mixed in. You don't want to beat this too much as it strengthens the gluten in the flour and makes the pancakes tougher. Don't worry, you can't screw this up - just don't put it in an electric mixer and let it run forever.
If possible, let the batter rest for a few minutes to allow the baking soda and baking powder to perform their magic. This will make for airier pancakes.

NOTE: The batter should be fairly thick, not runny. The perfect batter should pour onto the frying pan and not move much; it should only require a few taps of the measuring cup to spread it out. A few UK readers have commented that they get runny batters and this is most likely due to thin buttermilk. If this happens, don't worry, just add a bit more flour, a few tablespoons at a time, until it thickens up. Don't be afraid to add flour to thicken up the batter.
This recipe will make about 8 pancakes and can be easily doubled.

Cooking the pancakes

A simple non-stick frying pan is all you need. A heavier pan is better as it spreads the heat, prevents burning, and browns the pancakes nicely. Heat the pan on the lowest setting on your stove top, as it is easy to burn pancakes. If you have an electric skillet, set it to 325°F. By the way, don't try to make it work with a scratched 20 year old camping pan. It has to be a good quality non-stick surface to work well.
TRICK: Usually, it helps to put a few drops of oil on the fry pan and rub it around with a paper towel. Even with a non-stick surface, it helps the batter release more easily.
Drop a 1/4 cup scoop of batter onto the pan. You might need to spread it around just a bit if the batter is extra thick. You should hear a slight sizzle when you pour the batter; if it sizzles loudly, or worse, big bubbles form as you pour, the heat is way too high. Turn it down.
The most important point is to cook these pancakes slowly. Too fast and you'll burn them, or worse yet, you'll have pancakes with gooey liquid centers. A good rule of thumb is 90-120 seconds per side. If they burn before that, your pan is still too hot. If things are at the right temperature, you'll know it is time to flip, without needing to use a timer, by the small bubbles forming at the top of the pancake. When it is covered in small holes, the edge of pancake will start to look dry. This is the time to flip.
It is a good idea to get good at 'peeking' under the edge of the pancake with the flipper. This gives you a good idea of how quickly the bottom is browning. Still a bit yellow? Keep it on for a few more seconds. Browning too fast? Flip it and turn down the heat.
Flipping takes a few tries to get the hang of it. If you've got a good thick batter, there will still be plenty of 'goo' there in the center. When you flip, you've got to do it quickly so it doesn't sploosh across the pan. It might take you a few tries at first but it isn't hard, just do it fairly quickly. This is REALLY fun to do with your younger kids - just start off with scant cups of batter to make them even smaller and easier to flip.
TRICK: If you want, substitute Splenda instead of sugar. This makes the batter handle higher temperatures without burning and doesn't affect the texture or flavor much.
The first pancake usually has 'white spots' on the first side, which I think is the result of the oil I spread on the pan. However, after the first one, the following pancakes will have much more uniform color and pattern.
If you want 6 bigger pancakes, use a 1/3 cup instead of 1/4 cup. They are harder to flip, so make sure you're comfortable with the smaller ones.

Eating the pancakes!

There is no wrong way to do this. The classic approach is to pile up 2-3 and pour syrup over them. Which kind of syrup is entirely your choice. Whatever you do, a nice touch is to heat it in the microwave so you pour hot syrup on hot pancakes (don't underestimate this - it really helps!)
For fun, you can sprinkle fruit, like blueberries or sliced strawberries, over the top. Kids love chocolate chips placed between the layers. If you layer pancake - chocolate chips - pancake as they are coming off the pan, the chips melt nicely.

If you really want to get fancy, put some powdered sugar into a sieve and tap it over the pancakes, it'll dust them with a thin layer of sugar 'snow'. Be sure to do this BEFORE you put on the fruit or the syrup.
If you want to go "Martha Stewart" then place an object, like a paper star or heart, on top of the pancakes, dust with sugar, and then pull it off: instant domestic god...
One more 'knock their socks off' trick: Create a killer alternative to blueberry syrup by gently heating on the stovetop one jar of good quality blueberry jam together with a small container of fresh blueberries. MUCH better than the store bought stuff!

Making them fun: adding stuff

If you really want to blow your breakfast crowd away, add things into the pancake batter while it's cooking. The classic addition is chocolate chips. The technique is simple:

1. Pour out the batter normally
2. Sprinkle the chips over the top
3. "Stomp" the chips down into the batter using the back of a spoon
4. Try to cover the chips with a little batter as you stomp them. This is important as when you flip the pancake, it will seal the chip inside the pancake and not burn the chocolate on the frying pan.

Kids absolutely kill for these things. I'm not kidding. You'll never make anything else for breakfast once you get this perfected.
Blueberries: A more grown up, but amazing alternative to the chocolate chips. Fresh are best, but I keep a bag of frozen ones in my freezer, just in case. They work very well. Just be sure to cook the pancakes a bit longer, as the frozen berries make it harder to cook the center of the pancake.
Bananas: Another good alternative is banana slices. Pour the batter and place slices of banana around, pushing them slightly into the batter. Unlike the blueberries, leave them exposed - not covered with batter. That way, when you flip the pancake, the bananas are directly on the griddle and caramelize a bit.
Smart aleck alert! Don't think you're going to be clever and dump everything into the batter and just scoop it out. You *can* do this of course but it is much harder to pull off than you would think. Things tend to settle at the bottom, making it hard to get them evenly distributed. They also tend to cluster when you pour. The "add after you pour" method makes for a more uniform presentation.
Spices: Like the vanilla, adding spices increases the aromatic quality of the pancakes. I personally like cinnamon (very nice with blueberries!) or cardamom (for you Nordic types...) Start with something small like 1/4 - 1/2 tsp and work your way up. The amount will vary with your personal taste and the quality of your spices. This is where you can hardly go wrong, just experiment and have fun.

Going for perfection

The following section is going to list many ways to make the pancakes extra special. You don't need to do this, of course, but if you really want to do this right, a few simple things will really take these pancakes to the next level.
Flour: A really good bread flour makes a difference. I use King Arthur flour (as do many bakers) as it just forms a stronger structure and creates a lighter final product. Don't use cake flours thinking that it will make the pancake lighter, it doesn't. Pancakes need the extra protein that comes from bread flour to trap the air that is created while cooking.
You can certainly use whole wheat flour, or any other flour for that matter. If possible, get a 'pastry grind' as it makes the batter lighter. I've also used wheat germ and ground oatmeal (put normal oatmeal through a spice mill). They are all fun and dramatically change both the texture and the flavor. Try them all and experiment. However, each one makes the final pancakes heavier. To reclaim some of that lightness, just add 1 Tbsp of wheat gluten (found in the baking section of your super market) to make up for the heavier flour.
Vanilla & Sugar: Both of these are in the recipe above, but are optional. Many pancake purists omit both of these, using fruit and syrup to add sweetness and flavor. I like my pancakes to stand on their own and these two add a depth and complexity that I find very appealing.
Whipped egg whites: Some recipes use 2 whipped egg whites instead one whole beaten egg. This does make the pancakes loftier, so if you're adventurous, I encourage you to try it. However, I don't find this to be a big difference and it increases the overall effort.
Ingredient Temperature: If you can, pull the egg/buttermilk out of the fridge a bit early and let it come to room temperature. It reacts more strongly to the baking soda and gives more rise to the pancake.
Batter consistency: This is for the true purist. Getting the batter exactly right is the key to making them extra light. The basic rule to keep in mind is that runny batter makes the pancakes dense and flat. Thick batters can be harder to work with and create tough pancakes.
The perfect batter is a bit stiff, but still pours out of the measuring cup: it requires a few 'taps' of the measuring cup to spread it out on the fry pan. Always test your batter by pouring it out of a measuring spoon, back into the bowl. If it is too thin, just add some more flour until it is thick enough. If it is too thick, a splash of milk. Check out the video above to see what I go for. Don't be a slave to the measurements! Getting the batter right makes the pancakes perfect.
Once you've made these pancakes a few times, this is where you'll spend your time fiddling and experimenting, as getting the consistency right is what takes them from good to great. It's not hard. You'll get to be more sensitive to it and, depending on your ingredients, usually tweak the flour or milk just a bit.

Cookware

If you start doing this as frequently as I do, you'll want to invest in a good wide skillet that allows you to cook 2-3 pancakes at once. This makes all the difference as you can actually feed a small group in a reasonable time. I have a stove top version that covers two burners. It is very heavy and has a high quality non stick surface. There are many out there. I happen to use one from All-Clad that cost me about $90 in 2004. Yes, it's pricey, but it makes your life much easier and the pancakes look beautiful.
You can also get electric skillets. They have a big advantage in that you can control the heat much more accurately. The problem is that a good heavy electric skillet is hard to find. The vast majority out there are much too thin, don't hold their heat well and cause the pancakes to brown unevenly.

When disaster strikes

I've been called on to make my pancakes in many situations. While these pancakes are very easy to make, it is hard to pull this off in most kitchens that aren't prepared. Here are a few tips:
No buttermilk: The ultimate disaster! Should you give up and go home? All is not lost. You won't be able to make them swoon, but you can make do. Here are four alternatives, in 'best results' order:

1. If you can find it, powdered buttermilk actually works quite well. Follow the direction on the package. I keep some on hand just in case I run out of the real stuff.
2. Simulate buttermilk by mixing whole milk and lemon or lime juice. Mix 1 cup milk and add juice from half a lemon and let it sit for a few minutes. This will sour the milk and give you much of what buttermilk can do. You can certainly do this with any grade of milk, whole milk just works best. White vinegar will also work in place of lemon juice, in the same proportion. The point is to sour the milk, and both methods work just as well. The reason for the reduction down to 1 cup is this will be not be thick like buttermilk so less liquid is needed.
3. Yogurt also works as it has a high acid content. The only trick is that the thickness of yogurts varies quite a bit. Here in the US, our yogurts tend to be quite thick so 2 parts yogurt to 1 part milk has worked well for me.
4. The simplest solution is just to use regular milk - whole milk if possible. Use only 1 cup, as it is much thinner than buttermilk. Be sure to let the batter rest for 5 minutes before cooking!

Important Buttermilk Breaking News: I recently had to change buttermilk brands and have noticed that it can make a huge difference. My original brand made light and fluffy pancakes and my new brand (Knudsen, if you must know) produced a very gummy, wet and heavy version. I really couldn't believe that it could make such a difference. I switched to my fallback, milk + lime juice, and noticed a big improvement over my new gummy brand. Lesson: if your pancakes aren't super light, try using a different buttermilk, or substitute!
No Milk: Basically, you're toast. Well... you can make it work but you're in 'battle mode' here as the milk fat and proteins are a key part of making the texture and loft possible. A few kind lactose intolerant readers have commented that you can use water, juice, and soy milk and get reasonable results.
No Baking Soda or Baking Powder: Baking soda reacts strongly with the acid in the buttermilk. The baking powder is there to give extra lift from the heat that comes from cooking the pancakes. The two together give you double lifting power. If you have no baking soda, just double the baking powder. However, if you have no baking powder, just increase the baking soda to 3/4 tsp, as using too much risks a bitter taste.
If you don't have either, then you really are toast.
No Butter: Use oil. It won't be sublime, but it works.

No Egg: Not great, but you can survive without it, it won't be as lofty and the pancakes will taste a bit 'flat' and the texture of the final pancake will be stiff. Add a teaspoon of wheat gluten (if you have it) to add more protein and a bit more buttermilk to make up for the lost liquids and think about adding fruit or spices to the batter to liven the flavor up.

Closing

This is a rather long article for 'just pancakes.' The point was to write enough so that complete novices will feel someone is there giving them tips and encouraging them to try. I've met too many people that never even think of trying to cook like this. Give it a shot! The ingredients are cheap and the results are amazing.
Thanks to the many people that have offered edits/suggestions to this knol. It is MUCH improved due to your suggestions. I wish there was a way on knol to chat and create our own backroom to discuss the many suggestions (and challenges!) you've made.

Comments

Awesome

Great job! The author really took time to post recipe and videos. I specifically like "When disaster strikes" section as I'm from Russia and we had to use what we had in the house:)
Alex Osipov
www.acreative.ca
Measuring Flour
The article states, "A few UK readers have commented that they get runny batters and this is most likely due to thin buttermilk." I wonder if this also has to do with the flour.
I live in the US. Most US home cooks measure flour by volume. When I tried this recipe, I measured the flour by weight and the batter was runny. I understand that flour is measured by weight much more often in the UK than in the US.
As an experiment, I compared three different ways of measuing flour by volume. First, I scooped 1 cup of flour out of the bin and leveled it off. It weighed a whopping 159 g. Next, I scooped flour with one measuring cup and poured it into another. Then I tapped the cup a bit and leveled it off. (This is the method I was taught growing up.) It weighed 137 g. Finally, I repeated second method, but without the tapping. This time it weighed 125 g.
If you've had success with this recipe without having to add a lot more flour, please tell us what measuring method you used. Thank you.
Well, I just 'scoop' from the bag, so I'm most likely at the high end of your weight examples. But that's why I went into such detail about the consistency, including the video to be sure. Whatever technique you use, keep adding until you get it thick enough.
I just tested this morning and with my bread flour, and a simple scoop (no sifting) my flour weighed 165 grams which is even higher than any of your measurements.
As I clearly have been using this method for awhile now, I've updated the metric portion of the recipe so our European friends won't have quite so much trouble with runny batters.
regular milk and apple cider vinegar
I have a cookbook which recommends regular milk
and some apple cider vinegar. I put them together before I start
to make anything else.
As the buttermilk in California isn't the same as where I first learned this in Minnesota, I've been doing something very similar: I use a cup of whole milk and the juice of a small lime. Works extremely well.
Go-To Recipe
I ended my long, long pancake recipe search with this one. I've been using this one for quite a while now. My family loves them and they are very easy to make. I am now Super-Dad on weekends!
I use powdered buttermilk and water (according to the package instructions) instead of fresh buttermilk (the buttermilk powder goes in with the dry ingredients and the water in with the wet). I also use oil instead of butter and I always seem to have to double the amount of flour, which I add slowly as needed to reach a good consistency. I am so happy to have stumbled upon this one. Thanks a lot!
Chris
Hello Scott,
Thank you for the very in-depth article. I wish more cookbooks and online recipes would be like this. :)
My experience did not go so well. The only place I strayed from the instructions was in making only 4, instead of 8, pancakes. The end result was a gooey center, with brown outsides. Not very fluffy either. I've wracked my brain a bit much thinking about pancakes these past weeks, so if you have any ideas why larger--but not thicker--pancakes might cause a gooey center, I'd love to know. As for the fluffiness, this likely was the size of the pancakes. I noticed, in trying to get my spatula underneath such a large surface area, a lot of the air bubbles disappeared.
Next time I will go for much smaller pancakes. :)
Here are some questions/ideas I've always had about pancakes:
Butter - what does too much butter do to the batter when it is cooked? Would it adversely affect heat dispersal? (thus, potentially being the cause for the gooey center)
Mixing the batter - I know too much mixing makes too much gluten---which you can't really get rid of, AFAIK---which means rubbery pancakes. One time, from scratch, I mixed about 30 seconds with a whisk, barely got rid of lumps, and they were the most rubbery pancakes I've ever had. It's frustrating how finicky pancakes are... Anyways, do you know if there are any other reasons pancakes might come out rubbery, other than too much gluten formation? Also, do you ever leave flour lumps in the mixed batter, or do you, as you say in the article, just not sweat it, and mix until you have a nice, thick batter?
Baking soda & baking powder & letting the batter sit - As I understand it, baking powder contains baking soda AND an acidic compound, but there is no reaction until there is heat. With baking soda, as soon as it gets in touch with an acid, it starts reacting. Since this recipe uses both, we really shouldn't be leaving the batter sit any more than 1-2 minutes, right? Especially for me, since my pan isn't big enough for more than 1-2 pancakes, so cooking all of them takes a while.
Great questions:
1) Big vs small pancakes
Can't say I really know the answer there. My guess is that as they would need longer to cook (being bigger) your heat was too high) Turn it down next time and let them cook.
2) Too much butter
I've played with different amounts of butter and a few tables spoons more doesn't really do too much, it'll start to get heavy after awhile but you may like that. Give it a try! However if you put ALOT in, stand back, I wouldn't expect good things.
3) Mixing the batter
Yeah, it is a finicky process and it bothers me too. All I can say is that you just have to take it easy and not mix too much.
4) As to the baking powder vs baking soda debate. You are completely correct, in theory, you should only need baking soda if your batter is acidic enough. I find, however, that the 'heat released' effect of baking powder just seems to give a little more lift when it actually cooks. I'd love others to chime in as my choice isn't strict, it's just what has worked so far for me.
5) big pan vs little pan
Yeah, if I'm not using my big griddle, I'm cooking them only 1 at a time and I agree, that's a pain (which is why I bought a griddle!) If you only have a small pan, you just have to get a head start and keep them warm. Not perfect, but I find it is better to cooking them 1 at a time then trying to squeeze them all into a tiny pan

Thank you millions

Hi Scott, Really thank you for such wonderful information.
Pancake could be very tricky sometimes. The reason I say so is that it is so easy when I make it in Aus but never work out when back home in Taiwan. Then I realize it should be the difference of flour and milk.
After trying and failing so many times, I finally get it right with your recipe and advise.
"Buttermilk" isn't available in our supermarket, so I just put the lemon juice into the milk. Another good advise learnt from you is the flour as I always think "cake flour" will make pancakes more fluffier. Obviously, it's not true.
The only difference I found with this receipe is that my batter is still quite runny with 1.5 cups butter milk and 1cup flour. Maybe it's because my buttermilk is still too thin?! Will try again next time.
I would like to know if you have any suggestion for the changes of this recipe to make a more fluffy pancake?
Thank you!
Thin buttermilks will make a for a much runnier batter. UK readers have made the same comment. This is why I posted the consistency video so you could see how thick it should be. If yours is very runny, then just add more flour 1-2 Tablespoons at a time, until it thickens up.
A thick batter makes a puffy pancake!
Yes, I specifically call out that when you use milk+lemon juice you should only use 1 cup as it is so much runnier.
This is the most common comment I get and is why I included the video of the batter consistency. That is the most critical part of getting this pancakes to come out light.

Can the batter be made ahead?

Hi, Can this batter be made ahead, stored overnight in the fridge and then cook in the morning? And can any leftover batter still be used the next day if stored in fridge? Thank you.
Not really, there is a chemical reaction going on between the buttermilk and the baking soda that will eventually peter out. If you're willing to use powdered buttermilk, you could make the 'the drys' ahead, creating your own pancake mix but it would still require eggs and butter so it's not clear if that is saving you much.
If you just wanted to do the 'make in the evening' thing, you *could* mix up everything except the baking soda and baking powder. That should sit just fine in the fridge overnight and then in the morning sprinkle those over the top, stir in gently and then wait about 5 minutes for things to react/warm up a bit. In fact, if you could very gently microwave the cold batter (just for a few seconds) to warm it be before adding the powder/soda that
Buttermilk Pancakes - Homemade Buttermilk Pancakes
Recipe Type: Brunch and Breakfast, Eggs, Pancakes
Yields: 4 servings
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes

Ingredients:
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
4 teaspoons baking Powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups buttermilk*
4 tablespoons butter, melted
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 eggs, beaten
Additional butter for cooking the pancakes
Maple Syrup
Powdered (confectioners') sugar
* Learn how to make a Buttermilk Substitution.
Preparation:
In a large bowl, add flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; mix well.
In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk, melted butter, vanilla extract, and eggs. Pour the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture and whisk together until just combined to make a thick batter. For tender pancakes, do not over-mix the batter.
To achieve light and fluffy pancakes, it is important to let the batter rest for 5 minutes while you heat the skillet. The flour needs this time to absorb all the liquid which ensures that the batter will set up property. If you skip this step, the pancakes will run together in the pan and cook up flat and misshaped.
Heat a large frying pan or cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium heat until fairly hot. Make sure the griddle is hot but not too hot. Temperature is key to getting light, fluffy pancakes. If the griddle is too hot or cold, they'll either scorch or won't rise. Always preheating the griddle before adding your butter. Add 1 teaspoon butter and heat until the butter’s foam subsidies.
Ladle about 1/2 cup of the pancake batter onto the hot griddle. Don't mess with the pancakes too much. Let the pancake sit on the griddle and grow and rise by itself. Don't shake the pan or move it, as that will prevent it from rising. Let the batter do the work sitting on the grill and flip the pancake just when it starts to bubble on top. Cook the pancakes, turning only once, until deep golden brown on both sides, approximately 5 minutes total.
Transfer the cooked pancakes to a large plate, keep warm in oven. Repeat process with additional butter and remaining pancake batter to make 8 pancakes in all.
Serve hot, topped with butter and maple syrup and a dusting of Confectioners’ sugar.
Freezing Pancakes: Cooked pancakes will keep, sealed in freezer bags, for up to 2 days in the refrigerator and up to 1 month in the freezer. Defrost in the refrigerator overnight and reheat in a 350°F oven for 5 minutes.
Makes 4 servings.
would help quite a bit with making things react more strongly.